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"They call this location a mysterious vortex of Transylvania," remarks an experienced guide, the air from his lungs producing clouds of mist in the chilly dusk atmosphere. "Countless people have vanished here, it's thought it's an entrance to a parallel world." The guide is escorting a traveler on a night walk through frequently labeled as the globe's spookiest woodland: Hoia-Baciu, a section spanning 640 acres of old-growth local woods on the outskirts of the Romanian city of Cluj-Napoca.

Centuries of Mystery

Reports of strange happenings here date back a long time – the grove is titled for a local shepherd who is believed to have disappeared in the distant past, along with 200 of his sheep. But Hoia-Baciu gained global recognition in 1968, when an army specialist known as Emil Barnea took a picture of what he claimed was a unidentified flying object suspended above a oval meadow in the middle of the forest.

Numerous entered this place and never came out. But rest assured," he continues, addressing his guest with a smile. "Our tours have a 100% return rate."

In the decades since, Hoia-Baciu has brought in yogis, shamans, extraterrestrial investigators and paranormal investigators from around the globe, interested in encountering the unusual forces believed to resonate through the forest.

Contemporary Dangers

Despite being among the planet's leading hotspots for paranormal enthusiasts, the forest is facing danger. The outlying areas of Cluj-Napoca – a modern tech hub of over 400,000 residents, described as the Silicon Valley of the region – are encroaching, and developers are campaigning for authorization to clear the trees to construct residential buildings.

Except for a limited section home to area-specific oak varieties, the forest is not officially protected, but the guide hopes that the organization he helped establish – a dedicated preservation group – will contribute to improving the situation, encouraging the authorities to acknowledge the forest's value as a visitor destination.

Spooky Experiences

As twigs and autumn leaves split and rustle beneath their boots, the guide describes numerous local legends and claimed ghostly incidents here.

• A well-known account tells of a young child going missing during a family outing, then to reappear five years later with no memory of the events, having not aged a day, her attire without the smallest trace of dust.
• Frequent accounts describe cellphones and photography gear unexpectedly failing on entering the woods.
• Feelings range from complete terror to moments of euphoria.
• Various visitors report noticing bizarre skin irritations on their bodies, perceiving unseen murmurs through the woodland, or sense fingers clutching them, although convinced they're by themselves.

Research Efforts

Despite several of the stories may be hard to prove, numerous elements before my eyes that is certainly unusual. Everywhere you look are plants whose trunks are bent and twisted into bizarre configurations.

Different theories have been given to explain the misshapen plants: powerful storms could have bent the saplings, or inherently elevated radiation levels in the soil cause their unusual development.

But formal examinations have turned up inconclusive results.

The Legendary Opening

Marius's walks allow participants to engage in a modest investigation of their own. As we approach the meadow in the forest where Barnea took his famous UFO images, he gives his guest an EMF meter which detects EMF readings.

"We're entering the most energetic area of the forest," he says. "See what you can find."

The vegetation suddenly stop dead as they step into a flawless round. The only greenery is the low vegetation beneath the ground; it's apparent that it's not maintained, and seems that this unusual opening is wild, not the result of people.

Between Reality and Imagination

This part of Romania is a area which stirs the imagination, where the border is indistinct between truth and myth. In countryside villages faith continues in strigoi ("screamers") – supernatural, appearance-altering creatures, who return from burial sites to frighten nearby villages.

The famous author's well-known character Dracula is permanently linked with Transylvania, and the legendary fortress – a Saxon monolith perched on a rocky outcrop in the mountain range – is heavily promoted as "the count's residence".

But including legend-filled Transylvania – truly, "the land past the woods" – feels real and understandable in contrast to the haunted grove, which seem to be, for reasons related to radiation, climatic or entirely legendary, a nexus for human imaginative power.

"Within this forest," the guide comments, "the division between truth and fantasy is extremely fine."